On a chilly and damp winter day, a cozy country pub exudes a warm and inviting ambiance. The allure of this charming establishment in a quaint Vale of Glamorgan village beckoned me for three compelling reasons. First and foremost, its culinary reputation was highly esteemed. Secondly, despite having passed by it numerous times while cycling, I had resisted the urge to abandon my bike and venture in for a pint.
Yet, the paramount reason for my visit was the fact that this pub is under the ownership of a renowned sports figure. I vividly recall being part of the crowd two decades ago when Gavin Henson executed one of the most iconic and pivotal kicks in Welsh rugby history. Despite not being Wales’ primary kicker that day, Henson courageously stepped up in a critical moment, launching a remarkable 44-meter kick from an exceptionally challenging angle, securing a momentous victory over England in Cardiff and ushering in a new era for Welsh rugby.
Henson, recognized for his distinctive appearance with spiky hair, bronzed skin, shaved legs, and remarkable physique, ascended to stardom, forming one half of a celebrity power duo alongside singer Charlotte Church. Their high-profile presence in UK tabloids and Heat magazine during the mid-to-late 2000s earned them the moniker “Welsh Posh and Becks.” Henson’s ventures into reality TV, including appearances on Strictly Come Dancing and The Bachelor, further propelled his celebrity status.
Beyond his celebrity persona, Henson’s exceptional athletic prowess and unwavering dedication set him apart. Known for his charismatic persona, he had a knack for standing out and captivating audiences. Even small gestures like dyeing his hair red prompted admirers to emulate his style, showcasing the magnetic appeal he held. Despite the media attention he once courted, a recent podcast sheds light on Henson’s current aversion to the limelight, as he now embraces a quieter family life in the serene village of St Brides Major, near his hometown.
In 2019, Henson and his wife, Katie, assumed ownership of The Fox, a move symbolized by a black Bentley parked nearby that hinted at his presence. Following an extensive refurbishment, the pub reopened in February 2020, only to face the challenges posed by the Covid pandemic, which forced the closure of pubs nationwide. Nonetheless, early reviews lauded the pub for its delectable cuisine and warm hospitality, with Henson himself engaging with patrons.
Fast forward two years, the pub garnered attention once more as it sought a new head chef amidst the tumultuous hospitality landscape influenced by the pandemic and Brexit uncertainties. Presently, The Fox exudes an air of timeless operation, blending homeliness with style through its flagstone flooring, soothing color palette, rustic furnishings, and tasteful Christmas adornments. Upon settling at a cozy corner table, we savored Butty Bach ale and Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone lager, contemplating our dining choices.
The Sunday menu, succinct yet enticing, offered a selection of starters and mains. Opting for crispy ham hock with confit egg yolk, fennel, and apple, as well as a cod and salmon fishcake with samphire and caper butter, we relished the crispy exteriors and flavorful fillings. For the main course, we indulged in roast sirloin of Welsh beef and shoulder of Welsh lamb, both exquisitely prepared and accompanied by an array of delectable sides. Despite forgoing desserts due to satiation, the menu featured tempting options like sticky toffee pudding and chocolate orange marquise.
As our meal concluded, the bill for two starters, two mains, two kids’ meals, beverages, and a fruit juice totaled a reasonable £91, with my portion amounting to £37. Immersed in the inviting atmosphere, I found myself instantly at ease, a sentiment echoed by neighboring diners expressing their intent to return. In essence, the experience encapsulated by those four words is precisely how I would describe it, notwithstanding my slight disappointment at not crossing paths with one of my sporting idols.